Ten Things You Never Knew About Getting to Mt. Everest
Infrequently Asked Questions

Page 4

Lukla, Nepal

Q:  How Cold is it at Everest Base Camp ("EBC") and how do you prepare for the extreme climate?

A: The temperature at Everest Base Camp and nearby villages and peaks varies depending on the time of year and regular fluctuations in weather patterns. At night, the temperatures can drop well below minus 20 degrees (F).

In the 40 miles between Lukla (around 9,000 feet above sea level) and EBC (around 17,500 feet above sea level), you pass through three climate zones. Early on in the hike, between Lukla and Namche Bazaar, the weather during the day is typically mild. The valley is lush and green, with steep, tall canyon walls.  It may be rainy nearer monsoon summer months like September and June. Rain or snow may be present, even in the lower regions of the trek.

Upon reaching Namche Bazaar around 11,300 feet, the rain may suddenly become snow, and the temperature may drop to near or below freezing at night. Still, the temperatures while trekking during the day may be quite mild unless it becomes windy or overcast. 

As you ascend to the upper Khumbu region above Namche Bazaar, the temperatures continue to fall day-by-day as you pass through Tengoche, Dingboche, Lobuche, and Gorak Shep (the highest permanent village in the Himalayas). 

One must be prepared for harsh conditions in any month of the year at these higher elevations. In Gorak Shep, for example, temperatures well below 0 degrees (F) should be expected at night. 

When setting out from Gorak Shep to summit the nearby peak of Kala Patthar on Purmori's flanks, expect temperatures of 20 degrees below zero, not including wind-chill, which makes that ascent of that mountain in the early morning hours before sunrise simply numbing. Exposing one's hands to the freezing night air for more than a few minutes will almost certainly result in frost bite. Much longer, and it is possible to lose fingers. 

Toes are also a serious concern, as trekkers ascend Kala Patthar in conventional hiking boots, not the type of mountaineering boots used to summit Mt. Everest. The later has more insulation to protect feet and toes from the extreme cold than traditional hiking boots. 

I use foot warmers and 100% merino wool, cushioned hiking socks up to my mid-calf. On my hands, I wear Hestra mittens with inserts for hand warmers. Mittens are clumsy, but in my experience, better suited to extreme cold than gloves.

A sleeping bag rated to 15 degrees below zero is suggested. I use a Marmot Col Long 800-fill goose down bag rated to minus 20 degrees. It's an amazing piece of equipment and consistently ranked among the finest high-alpine bags on the market. I have a difficult time sleeping in perfect conditions, so my Marmot is my most cherished possessions on the mountain. 

Monjo Village with Tea Hut in Foreground-right

Namche Bazaar

Q: What is it like at Gorak Shep, the highest permanent village in the Himalayas?

A: Gorak Shep is a tiny village that lies at an elevation of around 16,500 feet above sea leval. When Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary made the first successful summit of Mt. Everest, Gorak Shep served as Everests' first base camp.

Gorak Shep landscape is best described as rugged and frigid and devoid of life, modern luxury, services, food options, and color. Gorak Shep is surrounded by black and white. So distant is Gorak Shep from Kathmandu that goods obtained there--few as they are--cost five to ten times the price in Gorak Shep than in Kathmandu.

For example, a .5L bottle of water may cost $4 USD in Gorak Shep that costs $.50 USD in Lukla. All goods, gear, and equipment along the route to Gorak Shep arrives on the backs of porters and yaks who walk 40 miles from Lukla, explaining the cost and lack of supplies. 

Lodging in tea houses is a Hellish experience. Dal Bhat, the Napalis' favored dish, is served for breakfast lunch and dinner. That's a pile of steamed rice and puke-green lentil soup. I know it doesn't sound that bad, but trust me, it is! For this reason, I ration the few  food items I bring from the U.S. for the final days of ascending to and beyond Gorak Shep and EBC.

Gorak Shep is nearly universally loathed by trekkers and climbers. I would argue that camping in a tent might be favorable to experiencing a Gorak Shep tea hut. Tea houses in the far reaches of the Himalaya generally lack western-style toilets, running water, food choices or any degree of separation between you and your neighbors. 

Topping off the rugged conditions in Gorak Shep, is the fact that everyone, without exception is thoroughly exhausted, as the most demanding and grueling portion of the trek is when you reach Gorak Shep and EBC.  It is a long, strenuous day of climbing over glacial moraine in frigid temperatures ALL DAY LONG. 

Most trekkers simply want to rest or sleep, but sleep is illusive for most at 16,500 feet. I find myself aroused from light sleep almost immediately after dozing off, gasping for air. It is like sleep apnea, when snorers wake themselves up gasping for air-except worse. Like many people, the more exhausted I am, the more difficult it is to get restful sleep. Add to that, the lack of privacy, with only paper-thin sheets of plywood between guests hacking, coughing, spitting, talking, walking around, and sub-freezing temperatures, and you have the perfect recipe for sleep deprivation. 

Nobody plans to spend an excessive amount of time at Gorak Shep, except the Sherpas who call it home and serve as the inn-keepers and cooks for intrepid trekkers passing through. For many who fall ill after ascending above 5,000 meters, it is a rude awakening to arrive at Gorak Shep, only to discover you cannot leave on your own power--or by any other means. Rescue is frequently not possible from Gorak Shep for extended stretches of cloudy, windy weather. Indeed, this is a risk many don't consider before attempting this trek.

Some of the thousands of stone-hewn stairs on the trail to Namche Bazaar

Climbing Stairs on Route to Namche Bazaar

Day 3 and Day 4: Acclimatization Climbs

At just over 11,000 ft above sea level, Namche Bazaar is an excellent location to begin acclimatizing to the thinner air. We spend two days in the area, climbing several thousand feet during the day and returning to Namche Bazaar to sleep at night. Acclimatization hikes are challenging, yet  acclimatization days are commonly referred to as "rest days". Not! 

​Day 5: Namche Bazaar to Tengobche

Setting out from Namche Bazaar to Phunki Tenga, the gradient begins increasing dramatically towards Tengboche. The distance to Tengboche from Phunki Tenga is about 1.6 miles. In that 1.6 miles the trail gains about 1,800 feet of elevation equating to a nasty 21% gradient. It is imperative to climb at a slow and steady pace, plodding upwards towards Tengboche.

The climb to Tengboche, is characterized by a series of switchbacks before finally entering Tengobche through a gateway of prayer wheels that serves as its entrance.

Tengboche is a tiny village dominated by our lodge and the Tengoche Monestary.  Tengboche is laid back and quiet, except for the barking dogs. Dogs are commonly seen along the trail to this point. 

Tengboche Monestary